Sunday, September 30, 2007

i really want a snowball!

So I spent my first day of solo traveling in Townsville, which I had been warned was not a very exciting place. It wasn't. I did stay in a very cute hostel, Reef Lodge, which was painted with sea creatures all over it and full of very friendly people. For my first morning I went to the Reef HQ aquarium, which was nice and had some gigantic fish, but was not as exciting as seeing the actual reef. After that I spent the day walking around the town and the beach and trying to find something else to do. I didn't. I went back to my hostel and watched some tv with the other backpackers. I finally understand how Deal or No Deal works, but it took about 3 people to explain it to me. Around 6 a ranger from a wildlife sanctuary showed up with a giant snake for everyone to hold and take their pictures with, which helped me add another check to my list of Australian animals I must hold and pose with. I signed up for a trip to the sanctuary the next morning to hold even more creatures. I was supposed to meet up with Aoife from my outback trip for dinner at 6, but around 7 called her cause I hadn't heard from her yet to discover that she had been trying to call me and text me for over an hour and my stupid phone that i still have no idea how it works was not giving me the messages, even though I had checked and was in an area with reception. She had just left for home so no more dinner plans. I had also been invited to go out with some of the girls in my dorm room but they had already left. I went back to tv watching and discovered that all 3 tv's in the hostel were tuned to the same show about antique hunting. I read for a while before someone put on the Devil Wears Prada dvd. It was a very exciting day in Townsville indeed.
The next morning I got up early and took the bus to the Billabong Sanctuary outside of Townsville. Most of the animals were still asleep, including a mother and baby koala who were hugging each other in a tree branch. It may have been the cutest thing I have ever seen. Around ten the nonstop shows and animal picture posing began. I listened to talks about and then held and smiled for the camera with koalas, wombats, sugar gliders, snakes, lizards, and crocodiles. The same guides lead each lecture and the crocodile show was much more exciting than the one at the huge arena at the Australia Zoo. I took the bus back to the hostel, collected my stuff, and boarded the ferry for Magnetic Island, about 20 minutes away from Townsville.
Once on the island I met Eline, from Holland, and we decided that we would walk to our hostel rather than wait for the bus. 30 minutes later as base backpackers sign was finally in sight we were regretting our decision. The hostel itself is amazing. Instead of one big building it is a bunch of little cabins on the beach. It turns out the night before the whole island had a huge full moon party and everyone was in recovery from it. I did get invited to a party at a picnic table (their words) by a group of still drunk Germans but decided to shower and make dinner instead. Eline and I then met up at happy hour and talked with some Canadian girls for a few hours, sharing some chocolate cake, and watching the just full moon at the beach. I then went back to my room and chatted with a guy from Sweden staying in my dorm about books for a little while before going to bed. Around 6 in the morning I was woken up by incredibly loud squawking birds and was beginning to like the beach cabin a little less.
I did fall back asleep a little bit before getting up for real and going for my introductory dive! Holly, my guide, gave me a little rundown on all the gear and then I suited up and walked down to the water to get started. The tank was very heavy and I am still impressed that I didn't fall over from the weight. Once in the water it was weightless though. Since it was a guided dive I had to hold Holly's hand the whole time and she did all of the work. I saw stingrays, a giant crawfish, and more rainbow coral and fish, who swam all around us. It was incredible! Holly let me swim around on my own a little but I kept floating up and she would have to yank me down again. When we got back to surface a half an hour later I was ready to sign up for a certification course. I think I will have to do it when I get to Cairns. I am in love with the Great Barrier Reef.
After the dive Eline and I took a bus to go on a hike at a national park on the island. We somehow ended up on an army forts hike rather than the hike to the beach that we wanted. It was still a great walk. The island was used during world war II and is full of old army forts and other stuff. The walk had some great views and we met a nice girl from Adelaide and ran into my Swedish roommate at the top. Eline had had enough walking so she caught the bus back, but I really wanted to see the beach so I hiked up and down a very steep road to Florence Bay, which was definitely worth it. I lay on the beach and read for a few hours before beginning the arduous hike back up and down the hills. On the way one car stopped and sprayed me with squirt guns which was much appreciated. I made it back to the hostel and went straight to the kitchen for food to find Eline with a half eaten package of Tim Tams that she forced me to take away from her. They are the best cookies ever. Well I am off to shower away the sand and grab some dinner and enjoy more of the beach!

Thursday, September 27, 2007

"Hamlet of Hedonism"

We did it again. Once more I received an early morning phone call wondering why I was not getting on the bus for a day trip. This time Amy and I double checked our alarms and woke up with (we thought) and hour to spend getting ready, but our leisurely morning turned into throwing things into bags and a repeat run across the hostel grounds due to writing down the wrong meeting time. Basically we suck. Thankfully I have my cell phone or me would have missed out on ocean rafting. Instead of doing a sailing trip around the Whitsunday islands (almost a requirement) we decided to try ocean rafting since it advertised itself as seasick-free. On the bus we met Thomasina who was traveling from Ireland with two friends who decided to spend the day in bed. Our raft sped around the islands and stopped at an aboriginal cave and then off one of the island's shores for some snorkeling, my new favorite activity. Most people were geared up in wetsuits but I thought it was pretty warm and decided I could save ten dollars and just go in my swimsuit. The water here really is turquoise and perfectly clear. I followed a school of giant rainbow fish through the multi-colored coral and used Amy's amazing underwater camera to take some pictures. I didn't think I would be so amazed by the reef, but I am so I will be shelling out even more money to try scuba diving and see a famous shipwreck and more fish and coral this weekend. I reluctantly got back on the raft and we sped away to Whitehaven beach. The sand looked and felt just like flour. We had a picnic lunch on the beach that was not very fun because the terrifying seagulls were trying (and often succeeding) at stealing the food from our plates. I hate birds. Despite my best sunscreen application my back managed to get even more burned while swam around. We then sped back to Airlie Beach and raced against another ocean raft which made me happy I chose this over sailing.
Today we checked out of our hostel and I said goodbye to Amy, since she has to return to the real world and I don't. I took the greyhound to Townsville and listened to a very entertaining fight between twin sisters when one of them realized she had accidentally booked her ticket for two days ago. For the next half and hour while waiting for the bus the one twin yelled at the other for being an idiot and repeatedly threatened to kill her sister if they could not get on the bus. Luckily for them, the bus driver didn't seem to care. Tomorrow I am going to try and hold a wombat at the wildlife sanctuary in town, go to the reef aquarium, and meet up with a girl from my outback tour who is working here. My new goal is to cuddle as many Australian animals as possible. If I can figure out how, I am going to post a few pictures my guide sent from the outback tour.

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

salty dogs

This morning started when my phone rang and I looked at the clock and realized it was 8:30, the time we were supposed to be meeting to go on our sea kayaking trip. I jumped up, threw on clothes and grabbed my toothbrush before running out the door to try and catch up. Amy had sprinted ahead of me and we managed to provied entertainmentto all the other backpackers sitting around the courtyard of our hostel as they yelled words of encouragement to us. Not surprising our bus was gone and Amy and I headed to the information desk to find out about getting a taxi. At that point we hear someone shout Amy's name and find that the bus has come back. The driver had decided to come back and look for us one last time and was able to pick us out by the panicked looks on our faces. I am very happy about her decision because the trip was amazing. We had a pretty small group and kayaked out to a few of the islands and had lunch, snorkeled, and relaxed on the beach. Most of the group were only kayaking for half the day. The only others on the full day trip were a couple on their honeymoon from Boston. Our guide, Anthony, is according to some random people who recognized him on the beach, one of the most famous kayakers in Australia. I am not sure how many famous kayakers there are, but Anthony has kayaked from Australia to New Zealand and done some other very long solo kayaks. He told us stories about almost being eaten by a crocodile and sleeping on remote island beaches that were covered with lightbulbs, tvs, and Japanese whiskey bottles. We also discussed the difficulty of being a famous person, which doesn't sound that bad to me. The one letdown of the day is that I managed to get sunburned, which doesn't surprise me since I am incapable of applying sunscreen correctly. I am also still trying to figure out how to use my new mobile service, since right now I am only able to make calls to people who have sent me text messages. Hopefully I will have that figured out soon because it is very annoying, especially when trying to call back the bus driver who woke me up at 8:30 in the morning to say that I am on my way. I don't know if next time we will be so lucky.

Monday, September 24, 2007

First week down under!

So I have been in Australia over a week now and still can't believe I am really here doing this. When I first got to the harbour at Sydney I just started at the bridge and the opera house pinching myself occasionally. I have a lot of catching up to do and will try to write more frequently to avoid novel length posts like this one is going to be.

Day 1: Sydney-
Amy I arrived in Sydney at 6 in the morning after almost 24 hours of traveling. My knees are sore from the lack of legroom in airplanes and even though I took 3 sleeping pills over the course of the flight I did not get much sleep. We took the train to our first (of so, so many} hosetls, the YHA Railway Square. It's a pretty cool place with rooms in old railway carriages. We drop off our stuff and head out to explore the city. Amy I walk about 30 minutes to the harbour and stare and take way too many pictures of ourselves in front of the opera house and the bridge. Amy and I spend about an hour fruitlessly searching for the way to get onto the harbour bridge before giving up up. We then meet up with some of Amy's friends from a Contiki tour she did a few years ago, Vicki and Vinh and their adorable 3 year old son. They take us out to lunch at the Sydney Cafe which allows to stare some more at the harbour. The food was just as amazing as the view. We have huge platters of seafood and leave stuffed and ready to walk some more. We drive across the harbour bridge and visit Luna Park, a slightly creepy old amusement park. From there we say goodbye to our hosts who point us in the right direction so that we can walk back across the bridge, for even more staring and photos of the harbor. We then walk to Darling Harbour where we eat some kangaroo and more seafood for dinner, play in the fountains, catch the end of a didgeridoo show, and try not to collapse from exhaustion. We walk back to the hostel and force ourselves to stay awake until 9 pm.

day 2- Sydney

Amy and I are both awake at 5 but don't get out of bed for a few more hours. We then walk back to the harbour and go on a tour of the Sydney Opera House, which is very interesting. I am excited for my next time in Sydney when I can hopefully go see a show. We then take a bus to Bondi Beach. Optimistically we pack our swimsuits even though it is sweater weather. The beach is beautiful but freezing, and we only manage to get our feet wet while we watch the few brave souls surf and swim. There is about an hour long cliff walk with amazing views that takes you from Bondi to Coogee beach that we end up doing in lieu of swimming. Sadly, our jet lag is not over yet and we take the bus back to our hostel and crash while eating dinner. It's Amy's birthday but we are unable to get ourselves next door to the bar or stay awake past 9.

day 3 - Alice Springs

Today we wake up and fly to Alice Springs. Getting off the plane we are greeted with a blast of hot air and quickly change from long pants and sweaters to shorts and t-shirts. On our shuttle to the hostel we meet another boy from New Orleans,proving that it really is a small world. Our hostel, annie's place, is really cute with a smimming pool, cheap restaurant, and porn on the bathroom walls. Amy and I walk around town and enjoy our favorite Australian treat, an iced chocolate (ice cream, cream, chocolate syrup, whipped cream, and chocolate shavings) before swearing that we will never have another and getting lost on the way to Anzac Hill. We discover a kangaroo rescue center and get to hold a joey named Abigail in a manmade pouch and learn all about how to save joeys when there mothers are hit by tour buses and die. It's another early night for us, since we leave at 5:30 the next morning for our tour of the Outback.

Day 4 - Outback

We get up way too early and meet everyone on our tour. There are 21 of us and the only Americans are Amy, myself, and Evan the other New Orleanian. The others are German, Dutch, Japanese, Swedish, Irish, English and Belgian. Our tour guide is named Scotty and over the course of the trip will be insulted when told he looks like Shaggy from Scooby Doo and excited when told he looks like Where's Waldo (turns out he has the full Where's Waldo costume that he enjoys wearing out.) I first sit next to Mia from Sweden who is traveling with her brother Eric. They had just had all of their stuff stolen at their lost hostel, so using the money from travel insurance Eric bought himself a new wardrobe consiting of crocodile and kangaroo themed t-shirts. Not too far down the road we stop at a camel farm where Amy and I spend 5 dollars to ride a lazy camel named Mona around a pen. Our next stop is King's Canyon, where we hike up a very, very steep hill and swim in the Garden of Eden watering hole. We spend the night sleeping in swags (mini personal tent kind of thing) under the stars around the fire.

Day 5 - Outback

We set out fairly early and drive to Kata Tjuta (large domed rock formations. We hike through the valley of the winds and up and down a very steep cliff. We then have a picnic lunch with views of Ulluru (Ayer's Rock) and get educated at the Aboriginal Cultural Center. We then walk around part of the base of the giant rock, which is much more impressive that I expected. The rock is full of grooves and caves and other distinguishing marks that are missing from photographs. After listening to some creation stories we drive to the sunset viewing spot to watch the rock become very red along with a thousand other tourists. It's beautiful but ovewhelming due to the massive crowds. Our group was the first to arrive so we claimed the one table in the whole area and ate dinner and shook our heads as bus after giant tour bus pulled up. After the sunset we head to a new area to spread out our swags, play some drinking games, and get a little sleep before being woken up to go get prime seats to watch the sunrise.

Day 6 - Outback

We are woken up at 4:30 (ouch) and drive back to the same area we went to see the sunset. Everyone else is at the sunrise viewing area so since we are at the sunset viewing area we get the place pretty much to ourselves. We then go walk around the whole base of Ulluru. When we first arrive, the climb to the top is closed due to high winds and hot weather. The aboriginals ask that people do not climb up Ulluru because it is sacred to them, but even if they hadn't asked I don't think I would have been able to make it up. It is crazy steep and 35 people have fallen to their deaths over the years. As we finish up our base walk the climb has been opened and I stare at all the crazy people risking their lives. We then climb back into the bus for a very long ride back to Alice Springs. None of us have showered and we are covered in red dirt. On the way back we see wild horses, camels, and bulls. We get back to our hostel and all go for a swim in the pool, shower, and meet up for dinner and drinks. Later on we head to a nightclun down the street, Bojangles, where the dance floor is webcast every night. After a few hours of dancing one of our members decides to dance on a table and is pulled down by the bouncers and we all decide it is time to make our exit.

day 7- Brisbane

I wake up early the next morning to have free breakfast and spend some time on the internet, but discover that everything has been eaten and the internet is closed for the next few hours. I go for a walk with a few fellow tourmates before saying goodbye and heading to the airport to fly to Brisbane. It is sad to leave everyone but hopefully I will get to meet up with some of them again over the next few months. In Brisbane we are picked up by Clare, another of Amy's Contiki friends, who drives us to the Gold Coast town of Surfer's Paradise just as it begins to pouring rain. We walk along the beach anyway and get a beer before heading back to the city. We stop along the road to try some meat pies, an Australian specialty. Clare drops us at Bunk, our next hostel, which is connected to a very happening and very loud nightclub. Amy and I decide to do laundry rather than drink and make friends with the guy folding sheets in exchange for a free room. he lets us use the dryer for free, but we feel obliged to talk to him and help him fold sheets which means another late night. Around midnight we shove earplugs in and try to sleep even though the nightclub is still hopping.

Day 8 - Brisbane

Today we catch the train and head out of the city to spend the day at Steve Irwin's Australia Zoo, yay! I am very excited about this. We get to the zoo and walk through a park full of lounging kangaroos whom we pet and pose for photos with. I find my new favorite animal, the wombat. See some wallabies and remember that I wanted to volunteer at a rehabilitation center for them. I cuddle a koala for the obligatory photo and decide that I need one for a pet. Amy and I then go to the big croc show, but sadly there is no croc wrestling yet there are lots of big scary birds flying around the arena. We then find the petting zoo and fight lots of small children to pet piglets and lambs. There are old circus elephants, playful tiger cubs, and the crazy looking yet very cute echidna to stare at. At 2:30 we leave the zoo and get back to our hostel 4 hours later due to our inability to navigate public transportation. It is not fun and I am now in a bad mood and extremely tired. Clare and some of her friends meet us back at the hostel and we go eat some Chinese food in the very fancy looking Chinatown. We then decide to check out the loud and happening nightclub, but since it is Sunady night it no longer happening, just loud.

Day 9- Whitsunday Coast

We get up for yet another flight, this time to the Whitsunday Coast. We share a limousine with a few other backpackers from the airport to the hostel. This sounds nice but since I am sitting facing backwards it is not a pleasant ride and I get to Magnum's feeling sick. AMy and I have decided to get a double room instead of the dorm so that maybe we can get more sleep and can leave our stuff lying everywhere! We walk around the beach, eat some barrimundi, and book our sailing and kayaking days for the next few days.


Phew, that was a lot of info. Hopefully I will never have that much writing to do at once again. Internet time is not cheap!